【明報專訊】The Tuck Chong Sum Kee Bamboo Steamer Company is the last remaining traditional business of its kind in Hong Kong. Each item in the crowded narrow shop is handcrafted by a member of the Lam family, who moved to the city in the 1950s. Raymond Lam started working in the shop as a young boy and by the time he graduated he could make the steamers himself. Mr Lam still spends every day carefully moulding1 the bamboo into the round-shaped steamers, which house the beloved Chinese dim sum. The key to a great steamer, he says, is knowing the softness and texture of each piece of bamboo, which imparts2 a unique smell and taste to the food inside. Mr Lam's trademark stamp can be seen on steamers in local dai pai dongs and restaurants across the city. But he suspects others are making counterfeit copies of his work and is concerned about his reputation and the survival of his business.